LEVI’S X IAN BERRY at Design Week Milan

British Artist Ian Berry’s giant mural, made entirely of jeans for the 150th Anniversary of Levi’s 501®, rolls into Milan for this year’s Design Week. The iconic brand’s milestone is celebrated with this landmark piece by the famed London based artist, whose signature medium is recycled denim, it’s no surprise that Levi’s turned to him to make, in their words, “a work of art as iconic as the 501® Jean.”

The piece hanging in Paris in March

Earlier in the year, the Levi’s® brand introduced its Greatest Story Ever Worn global campaign celebrating the 150th anniversary of the 501® jean as an ever-expanding story, written and rewritten by everyone who wears them. In their own words Levi’s said, “As the excitement around the anniversary ramps up, Europe has taken the celebration to another level, partnering with the famous denim artist Ian Berry on a three-day art installation in the heart of Paris.” Ian Berry’s European tribute to the legendary American brand’s global campaign debuted last month in Paris’s Place de la République. You can see this extraordinary mural at its next exhibition in Milan for Design Week from April 17 to 23, and in Madrid’s Plaza del Callao from May 4 to 7.

Milan Design Week’s showing of Berry’s mural is part of Interni Fuorisalone 2023’s Design Re-Evolution Exhibition at the University of Milan’s historic Ca' Granda central courtyard, in Via Festa del Perdono, one of the city's most symbolic buildings. Given that Ian Berry pioneered the use of jeans as his artistic medium nearly two decades ago, his reuse of denim makes Interni’s exquisitely curated FuoriSalone 2023 a perfect forum to exhibit the work.

Berry is no stranger to Italy and has been featured in numerous Italian publications in the country where ‘blue jeans’ were not only first popularised, but also where denim has played an important role throughout many cultural evolutions, both ancient and modern. “I’ve worked with the city of Genoa which is of course where the name ‘jeans’ originated, and unveiled a portrait of Garibaldi at Museo del Risorgimento with ‘the unifier of Italy’ depicted wearing the progenitor of modern jeans. In the 15th century port city of Genoa, a strong cross-weave cotton from the French city of Nimes was used for sails and protecting goods, resulting in the name ‘denim’ from Serge de Nim. Similar textiles were later dyed with indigo, fashioned into work clothes and exported with the French name ‘bleu de Genes’ – ‘blue jeans.’ Berry notes, “It was there I saw the beautiful indigo tapestries.”

Garibaldi by Ian Berry at Museo del Risorgimento (click to see more)

Armani and Lapo Elkann in denim both hang in Italy

More recently, during the 80’s heyday of jeans, many famous Italian brands innovated the jeans concept, and many designers would say the 501® is the both foundation and pinnacle of denim fashion. This embrace of denim has led to frequent visits from Berry to the northern region of Italy - the home of European denim - which hosts many great brands as well as high-quality denim suppliers and textile innovators. 

Ian Berry is well-known for his detailed interior and exterior scenes as well as his emotive portraits, many of them of key figures connected to denim. “At one point many of my portraits were simultaneously in Italy, with both Armani and Lapo Elkann having one, my Debbie Harry hanging at Luxottica, and the Ayrton Senna portrait showing in Turin at APLOG, Alessandro Del Piero’s museum. When I was growing up in the 90’s I really felt that denim, while seen as American, had truly been embraced and elevated by Italian fashion. I think the country has a great connection to the material,” Berry said.

Ian Berry’s portraits for LEVI’S Chile in 2022

Berry’s all-denim photorealist art has shown around the world in galleries, museums and art fairs. As part of Milan Design Week, his piece for Levi’s is being taken to the people, shown outside in one of La Statale Ca' Granda’s magnificent courtyards, for all to see. This current piece for Levi’s 501® is the largest ever made entirely of denim, standing at 13 feet tall and 33 feet long, or four by ten metres, and is made solely from pre-worn denim. Conceived and crafted by Ian Berry in his East London atelier, the impressive mural was carefully assembled on site in Paris out of hundreds of bits of cut denim jeans.

By collaging the pieces of recycled 501® so well that to most it looks like a blue-toned painting, the artist pays tribute to some of the communities and movements that have contributed to the iconic design's legacy. Seven figures representing key cultural archetypes, from the cowboys of the 1880s to the punks and queer communities of the 70, bikers, rebels and one that represents the workers via a Rosie the Riveter type character, appear in a striking composition revealing how Ian Berry and Levi's® pay tribute to those who have made the 501® a timeless fashion item that crosses styles and generations. A banner reading “Legends Never Die” flies symbolically along with the incredible cast of dynamic figures that make up this beautiful piece.

Ian Berry installing in Paris

For the artist, whose signature medium is recycled denim, this project holds a very particular significance. “There is no history of blue jeans without Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, and the 501® is the pinnacle of jeans, so this 150th anniversary definitely feels like a big thing to me,” Ian Berry said. “The history is so rich; it was pretty easy to draw inspiration from all the people who did great things in their denim. The result is the largest piece that I have ever attempted. Countless hours went into this work, but I’m immensely proud to finally see the result together.”

Ian’s name has been linked to Levi’s for some time. In fact, LS&Co. historian Tracey Panek is a long-time admirer. “I am a fan of Ian Berry’s work and craftsmanship,” she said. “He’s such a talented artist with a gift for using denim. I keep one of his books in my home!” Recalling her exchanges with the artist around denim legends, Tracey commented, “This project looks amazing. Ian’s interpretation of the 501® jeans recurring presence in counterculture and progressive movements is on point. I’m excited to see it myself.”  

Commenting on the activation, Mathilde Vaucheret, brand marketing director, South Europe, said, “I’m proud that our Levi’s brand could associate its name with this great artist on such a milestone year and that we could share his stunning work of art on this busy and diverse square at the heart of Paris. This year’s Greatest Story Ever Worn campaign is all about celebrating the 501® jean with our fans and thanking them for being a part of this inspiring story.” 

Map of the courtyard showing the location to the piece (top corner)

Location

Interni Fuorisalone 2023 - Interni Design Re-Evolution 

University of Milan, via Festa del Perdono 7

17 - 23  April 2023

Ian Berry unveils a Portrait of Levi Strauss in the 'Jeans Inventors' Hometown.

On the 25th of September 2022, which commemorates the 120th anniversary of Levi Strauss' passing, Ian Berry unveiled a portrait made especially for the Levi Strauss Museum in the presence of a full house of intrigued visitors in the entrance of ​​his birthplace.

He was born in the German town of Buttenheim on the 26th February 1829 and now stands a museum in the home the Bavarian immigrant to the USA, spent his first 18 years It now is home to the artefacts and history of the life of the man born Leob Strauss and celebrates his legacy.  The museum commissioned Ian Berry, to create a portrait of Levi Strauss to proudly hang in the museum. 

Buttenheim's Mayor Michael Karmann was very pleased to have the artist’s work of international renown permanently exhibited in the museum as well as hosting Ian Berry once again in Buttenheim, Germany. In 2020 his extremely successful exhibition "Art in Denim" was shown at the Levi Strauss Museum.

Tanja Roppelt, Johan Kalb, Michael Karmann and Ian Berry with the Levi Strauss portrait.

In attendance were many of the people that help realise this opportunity to commission the portrait, as well as many of the masterminds of the Museum, including Christoph Gatz, the chairman of the association for the development of the Levi Strauss Museum birthplace, District Administrator Johan Kalb (CSU) as well as Tanja Roppelt, the museum director and curator.

Christoph Gatz praised the fact that the artist uses worn jeans for his works and thus makes an important contribution to the topic of sustainability and waste avoidance. The museums current temporary exhibition is “Sustainability?! Dealing with clothing yesterday and today” which also includes a section on Fast Fashion’s Graveyard, Ian Berry’s film about the clothes waste in the Atacama Desert.

Ian Berry with visitors.

Journalist Andrea Spoerlein said.

‘As with Ian Berry's other artworks, looking at the portrait is reminiscent of an oil painting or photograph. Dominated by the basic shade of jeans blue, due to the raw material, the artist has created an extraordinary portrait of the company founder through cutting, trimming and the extremely artistic assembly of individual jeans fabrics. Of course, he is not wearing jeans, but is depicted as a wealthy businessman of his era. The work is protected by a suitable frame with a special glass, theft and insect-proof.

The completely unpretentious artist allowed himself to be photographed with visitors and was happy to be back in Buttenheim.’

Ian Berry has been working over the last two decades with this medium and is known for his art made of only varying shades of denim jeans throughout the world. During the pandemic Ian Berry was one of the busiest artists on the planet with several museum shows going one around Europe. The first was launch in the fall of 2020 and was at the Levi Strauss Museum in Germany. 

photo of Levi Strauss Museum by Peter Weigelt

Tanja Roppelt, curator of the museum said. 

‘‘In 2020, we hosted the extremely successful exhibition "Art in Denim" with Ian Berry, which attracted people from all over Germany to Buttenheim despite the pandemic. We’re very excited to have him back with us and to unveil this piece of the ‘jeans inventor’”

Sculpture of Levis Strauss by Berlin artist Rainer Kurka. Photo by Peter Weigelt

hidden is a golden rivet in his hand behind his back. Photo by Peter Weigelt

 The Levi Strauss Museum Jeans & Kult founded in 2000 after much renovation of the small half-timbered house. Modern and interactive presentations will inform you about the person and his product - Levis in the 136 sq. m. exhibition space. An audio guide in different languages takes you through the house and tells the stories on Levi Strauss and his invention. Ian Berry helped the museum celebrate the 20th anniversary in 2020 with his exhibition. They also introduced a sculpture of Levi Strauss by the German Artist Rainer Kurka. 

photo of Levi Strauss Museum by Peter Weigelt

Next year sees the 150th anniversary of the most famous jean. The 501 created by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss and marks the date of the patent that protected the new way of making the pants strengthened by rivets. On May 20, 1873, together they applied for the US Patent No. 139,121 for "Improvements in fastening pocket openings" This trademark feature became Registered U.S. Trade Mark No. 1,139,254. This created the brand not only synonymous with denim jeans but one of the most iconic names on the planet. 

Ian Berry at the Levi Strauss Museum | Buttenheim

On September 13th Ian Berry opened an exhibition at the birthplace of the inventor of the modern jean, Levi Strauss. In a museum that looks back over the life of one of the world's most iconic names, it now also examines the years of Ian Berry's work who of course makes all of his work out of the material so synonymous with the man who emigrated from Germany to make his fortune: Denim jeans 

In these strange times it was great to get an event on, but the opening happened in restricted circumstances, thankfully with a warm German evening in the sun, a socially distanced crowd watched as the Mayor, Michael Karmann welcomed Ian Berry to the town of Buttenheim along with curator Tanja Roppelt. Many guest had travelled from all over Germany as well as Austria to see this opening, in the year of the 20th Anniversary of the museum.

Scroll through to see images of the exhibition by Peter Weigelt or click here

For the last 15 years Ian has been crafting his work out of the indigo dyed textile and this will commence two years of museum shows for the Yorkshire born artist. Many works are on display throughout the museum including from the Behind Closed Doors and Hotel California collections and the exhibition will help mark the special 20th Anniversary of the museum. They are located in the two main galleries with The Record Store and the Secret Garden in the windows of the shop/reception. The oldest piece in the show is 10 years old, ‘Commuters’.

Scroll through to see images of the Socially Distanced opening or click here - by Peter Weigelt

It was Berry's first showing of his work in Germany and he was there to meet the guests at the opening who had brought items to sign, as well as gifts - and of course… old jeans! many who had known Ian’s works for many times were surprised to find how layered they were in real life, after only seeing them secondary.

Once again a version of the Secret Garden was hung, with the help of Cone denim and Tonello in Italy.

‘It’s great to show in such a historic place, with the help of two companies that are doing so much for the sustainable future, with Tonello and their specialist washing machines and lasers and Cone denim who have partnered with Oritain with their unique scientific approach to provide greater visibility into the story and traceability behind their cotton’s origin.’

A special projection also was shown at the museum in Buttenheim.

There was a projection of #iclapfor on the front of the museum once it dropped dark. Iclapfor was Ian and his son’s project that has spread around the globe to show thanks for the key workers around the world as well as asking who people clap for. A documentary was shown in the film room and an emotional audience were very receptive.

As we head back in to darker times, with restrictions tightening and infections increasing it is still important to remember those who are supporting us through this. You can find out more about #iclapfor at www.iclapfor.com

‘It was such a great experience to meet so many people and to be looked after so well by the people of Buttenheim - especially Tanja Roppelt, (the curator) who worked so hard with me to get this show on and we shared so many nice stories as well as Mayor Michael Karmann and his family who showed me around the towns and villages with satisfaction. The great Bavarian food and beer was part of this experience but spending time with these people and learning about their community was inspiring, seeing once again (as previous locations) how their passion and pride makes things happen.’ Ian Berry

Elizabeth Steeger seen through the crowd at the opening

About the Museum 

Ian met Elizabeth Steeger , the lady who in the spring of 1983 was trying to organize a “German Fest” and wrote to the former Mayor of Buttenheim, asking for information about the birth of Levi Strauss. This started intensive research to be conducted in the register of births and deaths of the Jewish community of Buttenheim and the emigration documents of the Bamberg state archives and finally it proved that Levi Strauss was born in Buttenheim, a town in the Upper Franconian district of Bamberg. Not only that, they discovered his house was still standing and was one of the oldest houses in Buttenheim.

The district council bought the house in 1987, which was built approximately in 1687 and today is classified as a historical monument. An elaborate renovation of the dilapidated half-timbered house began, during which the house of birth of Levi Strauss was reconstructed as true to the original as possible. The idea to donate a museum to the history of indigo and denim took shape.

Ian Berry with curator Tanja Roppelt and Mayor Michael Karmann

‘the museum is impressive both in its renovation of the past, as well as its more contemporary extensions. I was actually really impressed to find this stunning place and was an honour to spend so much time there, and help celebrate their 20th year. For anyone who can ever get there whether during my show or in years in future, it is a brilliant place for history lovers and denimheads’ Ian added

The museum opened in September 2000 and revolves around the world’s most famous pair of pants and the biography of Levi Strauss. Visitors gain an insight into the lives of rural Franconian Jewish Community, the world of the immigrants, the beginnings of the textile industry and of course, all about the phenomenon of jeans. Short films, audio guides (in many languages), moving graphics and a collection of different pieces made from the legendary blue cotton cloth show the development of the jeans that serves as a meeting point for the curious, collectors, specialists and jean-wearers of every age. 

An exhibit in the Levi Strauss Museum in Buttenheim

After over a decade of success, the Museum planned to begin its next chapter by adding on an extension to the Levi Strauss birth house. With the help of Levi’s great-grandnephew, Dr. Douglas Goldman in California, the Museum was ceremoniously opened on May 21st, 2011, marking the beginning of a new phase in the Museum’s history. 

When the Museum opened back in 2000, hardly anyone anticipated its rapid success. Nevertheless, both Museum guests and professionals has seen the Levi Strauss Museum become a popular success and going strong in its 20th year. Every year, thousands of people visit Buttenheim from all over the world in order to experience the Museum and see where the idea of Jeans all began. Due to the high number of visitors and the many projects and events, the 130 square meters of the original birth house was almost always filled to its maximum capacity. Therefore, the Museum decided to extend to a neighbouring house, which would give the Museum over 500 square meters of available display space after renovations. The new extension allowed the Museum to continue to develop the Levi Strauss experience with a new archive to store the Museum’s historical collection and help preserve their historical pieces.  

While everyone had to wear masks, some were more creative. by Peter Weigelt

‘I really must thank everyone who made this trip so enjoyable, especially Tanja Roppelt and Michael Karmann and all the people I came across from the hotel to all the visitors who came to see the work.

The main regional paper, InFranken, reported';
’Völlig unprätentiös und ohne irgendwelche Starallüren freute sich der Künstler, dass er seine Arbeiten, quasi am Ursprungsort des Denim, dem Geburtsort von Levi Strauss, zeigen kann.’

(Completely unpretentious and without any starry airs, the artist was happy to be able to show his work at the place of origin of denim, the birthplace of Levi Strauss.) while commenting on how it was a big draw to be able to bring Ian to the museum.

About the Artist: Ian Berry

Ian Berry has been working with denim for the last 15 years, but he is more than the material he works with. During the Covid period his work took on a new life, having spent years portraying isolation. His Behind Closed Doors body of work became life for most of us, he had painstakingly crafted beautiful homes out of only denim but with a haunting scene of loneliness. Even his bar scenes or the work from Hotel California depicted a perception of solitude.

He works from photoshoots he either takes, or directs, and all of them were cancelled in the first week of lockdown. Many people sent him photos of their home isolation. Then, along with his son Elliott, 6, he made two applauding hands. Clapping for the health heroes had been a big part of British life for the first ten weeks of the Covid period. Ian’s son was particularly captivated and it enabled Ian to explain more what was going on while he was engaged. What started as a personal project between father and son, ended up been beamed all over the world via projections. It covers the whole of the UK and Ireland and was seen as far as Australia, Colombia and Brazil amongst many others. It became a big campaign called #iclapfor and a film will be shown at the museum.

Ian, original from Huddersfield lives and works in East London amongst thousands of pairs of jeans that he recycles to create almost photorealistic pieces and installations. He has been named a top 30 artist under 30 in the world as well as a top 50 name in denim worldwide in 2019 and now he will show at a historical home of one of the materials of our time.

This will start a series of museum shows. On November 28th Ian Berry will open Splendid Isolation at the Museum Rijswijk in Holland. The show at his home town of Huddersfield (in the center of the industrial revolution) is under doubt regarding Covid but in the fall of 2021 a large solo show will open at the National Museum of Textiles (Textiel Museet) in Boras, Sweden. Further shows are TBA due to covid issues. 

Ian Berry at the Levi Strauss Museum, Buttenheim

Details

13 Sept - 8 November 2020

Levi Strauss Museum

Marktstr. 31-33 96155 Buttenheim 

Phone: +49 95 45 - 44 26 02

email: levi-strauss-museum(at)buttenheim.de

*Due to the current situation, the planned two-day anniversary celebrations cannot take place within the planned framework and will be postponed to a later date.